When we get back from Getu and are in Yangshuo again, the first thing we do is eat Western food in one of our favorate restaurants and get-togethers Kelly's. Kelly's is a little restaurant that serves Western food and Chinese food, without MSG, which is very rare in China! The owner Kelly is a very nice lady that knows all the climbers by name and speaks good English. Almost every morning climbers have breakfast and meet each other there. On rainy days everybody hangs out there. We are happy to be back and see some of our friends.
Then we go climbing again! It starts to rain a lot in Yangshuo, and the temperature is dropping now. But the good crags are sheltered from the rain, and lower temperatures mean more friction! :-)
So armed with warm clothes and rain boots we head to the crags again.
Me and Marcel have some unfinished business at Lei Pi Shan, one of the hardest cliffs in Yangshuo. The first time we came there, Marcel convinced me to go into this 7A, called "Crash and Burn". It is a slightly overhanging route, with crimps and pinchers and with multiple cruxes along the way. Every time I try it, the hardest part seems to move up. The final crux is to climb past the last quickdraw on a pincher and a little undercling with bad footholds and move on to a jug in order to clip it. Because I find it impossible not to grab the quickdraw as I climb over it we decide it's a good idea to remove the quickdraw so I can't grab it!
Although I never thought it was possible, on the last day on the last try, using this new beta i sent the route.
I also sent Pickpocket, which is my second 7A!
Marcel on Riverside
Marcel sents "One Love" a very hard 7C+ on the same day, so we can leave China with a content feeling. But we will definitely be back!